Hola to all
Saludos from the town of Carrion de Condes in the province of Leon. Internet access has been limited but is free here in the convent of Espiritu Santo where I reside tonight so I thought to give an update. A weeks walking has been filled with landscape variety, new friends, a walk on the plains of Spain ie the meseta or flatlands, and a pass thru of two primary cities, Logrono and Burgos. Towns seem more inhabitated in comparison to the quiet amble on empty streets in prior days and frequent stops for coffee are made in the local bars and cafes. For those unfamiliar to Spain the bar is a community center where children and adults linger as well as where icecream can be had, men play dominoes, locals meet to gossip, lottery tickets are sold,tapas of fresh food are consummed, and always always a blaring TV is to be heard ! Mardid and Barcelona, rival soccer teams, have been playing it out in the countrys dearly beloved futbol and makeshift games are often seen in parks, with backdrops of cathedral gates for goals, where even the toddlers play.
Towns now seem to be dominated by 15th and 16th century monestaries, stone and earthen houses are common , medieval fountains are perched in the central plaza or square, villages have at least one church, the town shuts down for siesta between 230-530 p.m., and cathedrals are bulit in stages as far back as 1044. Favored places to stay have included an evening with floor accomodation in the attic of a 200 year old house complete with chapel and run by Franciscan monks. A communal meal preparation of salad, bread, and rice with sauteed onions, pepper,garlic, and a bit of chicken on Good Friday was enjoyed and a shared meal by candlelight with an extra plate setting was memorable . A true gentle ease of strangers coming together was happily experienced and I would love to return to volunteer someday. An optional service was also attended where we read in four languages the prayer requests of prior pilgrims that had stayed in the wood timbered home. Burgos. a tourist destination with ultra moden new albergue, was finally reached after a 7 mile jaunt through the industrail zone; enough to make me consider takling a bus when arriving at the next city. We arrived on the eve of Easter with Semanta Santa or Easter floats rolling thorugh this city known for its extraordinary Gothic catheral and tapas of morcilla, a grotesque mixture of pig blood, rice,and sausage. I enjoyed the red pepper on top but tried it for the experience! A true carnivore region! A tapa of egg, tuna, and white of balnco asparagus on a shish ka bob did me in ... or perhaps a brief stoamch flu..who knows..the city contamination of sorts after the open road...ah but with two nights of leisure at the Hotel El Cid on the cathedral plaza square I recovered rather quickly. Nontheless, I spent two gloriouos luxrious nights with a bathtub, thank you, for soaking, and laid low subsiding on bannanas, rice, and bread until ready to travel on. The hotel splurge from the 12 bed filled bunkbed accomodations I have become accustomed to on this journey was a welcome change! Ahhhh! Prior to this , however my walking partners of Steve, the Alaskan, Austrailan couple, Marc and Karen, and I took a diversion with a taxi to Santo Domingo de Silos while actually sitting in a car. HA! Roamanesque cloisters were toured and an abbey mass attended to hear the famous Gregorian chants. In exquistite sculpte Jesus is depicted as a pilgrim on the road to Emmaus...very interesting! An evening out with a family from Barcelona (of three generations ) was loads of fun as we all chipped in and hit the local bars for tapas of morcilla, Iberian ham, stuffed red peppers,and clams. Truly wonderful with laughter, an introduction to the different language of Catalayna, and a rush back to collapse at the albergua before the doors locked down at 1030 pm...ha when most Spanairds are only getting started.
Since this interlude I have hiked four days passing pilgrim villages with structures and 14th century intact churches. ruined arches which cross the road, and stories of old pilgrim hospitals or alberguas where monks cared for pilgrims suffering from St. Anthonys fire, a form of gangrene apppearing in Europe in the 10th century. Glad times have changed as I mostly see tendonitis and wobbling pilgrims trying to walk in sandles in the evening with horrendous blisters! Ruined 13th centry castles are seen on hillsides with towns built in layers of Roman origin back to Julius Ceasars day by history I am told. The towns appear in the distance as an oasis off the frequent mesetas and barren and arid roads by narrow rivers which now line the more narrow trail. Arroya San Bol has been a highlighted overnight stay with supposed medicinal springs out the back door for what ails you. I arrived after a long days walk to a candlelight dinner in this brick rounded structure with a doamed roof and a small room sleeping 10 and adjacent kitchen and dining area! An incredible sunset was seen with a multicultural table of Canadians, a Spaniard, a Norweigen couple, and me, the solo American.
The walking route of recent has been across more open landscape with little shade, windmills in the ditance, and open arable farmlands. Steep climbs are had at times with 12 percent grades to reach the tops of walkways but primarily we now move along 2000 year old Roman roads which at times criss cross the national roadways with hermitages seen in the fields of greeen. Remote vineyards and more limited water are found however towns appear at least evey 5 miles or so. The red rich clay soil of Rioja which is beautiful in the sun , has been a slogging nighmare as it has rained overnight at times making the trail seem like quicksand vying for my shoes. The barren Sierra Atapeuerca has passed away with peaceful valleys more frequent. Some seem to view the now never ending meseta as boring but I am finding the natural sounds, birds, and restful silence to be quite soothing. Today, the first experience of a modern senda or pilgrim autopista was experienced....ha walking on a souless road next to roaring two lane traffic in the heat. No thank you!Tomorrow we traverse what was known as the Via Trajana, a Roamn road that connected Spain and France to the upcoming area of Astorga. Other than sore feet when walking on asphalted areas my body is taking form. Ankles are no longer sore without the support of boots as I wear cross traiiners on this trip and my only complaint is a jabbing knee pain on descents and occassional muscle cramps at night which are decreasing as well and often related to hydration.
My current walking friends of Fatima from Monzambique living in Lisbon and Brazil , and French Jean Michele from Bordeaux, have just come in to ask me to check the full moon prediction as we may walk at night in the next day or two as we will walk under a fullly visible Milky Way on this path of Estella, or path of stars. We have enjoyed each others company for the past several nights at mealtimes and at breaks during the day as they venture a bit ahead. It is quite hilarious this combination of languages but Fatima understands my Spanish and English, and Jean Michele just communicates with laughter and gestures, and never ending French. Steve is a day ahead, Aussie friend Inez is a bit behind I believe, Marc and Karin have bused to Leon due to leg problems, and olden frieds of Tamara and Daniel, the only other Americans I have met, have bused ahead due to time constraints and to miss the meseta in favor of making it to the end. Juana, a younger student who has just finished university in Barcelona is also on and off with us in the evenings. Email is amazing and I occassionally hear from Eugene, a chap from South Africa who I met at the beginning, who is also a few days ahead. What a small world!
Until next time....breathe deeply this brief thing called life,love profoundly, and a peaceful spirit to you this day! Next update in a week perhaps with photos! Ciao!
Susan
